The streamer housing for the Raspberry Pi
Rarely I have received so much positive feedback on one of my hobbies, as with my network player Hifiberry. I was often asked if I would sell the housing.
And that's exactly what we have decided, the PiBox is offered as a kit!
Everyone can build his individual player with this kit, whether with built-in amplifiers, in other colors
or with different DACs, there are no limits for your own creativity.
On this page the kit is described and the assembly explained.
The kit contains all parts necessary for the construction of the housing
and is now available in our shop.
The kit contains the following components:
- Keyboard module for control
For all other components, everyone is free to choose.
I.) The keyboard module
Unfortunately the supplier of the keyboard module took it out of the program, so we have developed our own keyboard.
In principle, everyone who is able to programm C, can use each button for his own wishes.
The keyboard is working as a HID interface and can be used like any PC-keyboard.
In the first picture all components of the board are shown.
1. In the first step, I always start with the flatest components. The IC socket and the resistors are inserted from the side with the placement pressure and soldered from the back. All resistors have the same value, so you can not change anything.
2. Now proceed with the buttons. These are inserted from the back and soldered from the front (side with the labeling). Make sure
the guide pins are inserted into the holes and the buttons are laid flat on the circuit board. Otherwise the pushbuttons will not fit through the holes of our housing front.
3. In the last step, the plug connector is soldered and the jumper is plugged in. The jumper is used to interrupt the boot loop of the Atmega, since it can not be reprogrammed. When the boot process is complete,
the keyboard module functions as a normal PC keyboard and can be operated at any USB port. So you can also control your PC with it.
Now solder the two posts in the Arduino and then plug it into the board. Make sure the USB connector points toward the seven resistors.
The module is ready to use now.
II.) The front panel
The front is delivered in natural aluminum, glass bead-blasted (see picture, lower front panel).
This makes a very high-quality impression already in the delivery variant and everyone can design it exclusively.
The front plate can be painted very well, which results in a very
high-quality and easy-to-use surface. Of course the material (AlMg4,5Mn) can be anodized.
Some customers have expressed the desire to brush their housings or to polish them on high gloss.
If such a surface is planned, the front panel can of course also be delivered without irradiation. (See picture, upper plate)
1. Before installing the keyboard, place the five poliamid discs on the mounting threads. This is important because they serve as an insulation for the housing, on the other hand they ensure the correct depth of the tasks.
2. Now the keyboard is inserted and screwed with five cylinder head screws M3x6 + washer. Make sure the buttons do not jam during assemble.
The connection to the Pi is will be done by using a MicroUSB cable.
3. Now follow the assembly of the main switch and the display, both are not parts of the kit (see list of parts). The front plate has a bore of 19.2mm, so standard 19mm-types will fit. The display opening is designed for the original Raspberry 7-inch touch screen. It is fixed with four cylinderscrews M3x6.
III.) The body
It is manufacted of black coated metal plates.
The back plate has openings for an IEC power plugs and a fuse holder.
The first picture shows all components of the body.
1. First I screwed the side walls with the perforated grid plate, but the screws have not been fixed finally.
You can still move the ground.
2. Now the backpanel will be installed. The mounting holes are mirror-symmetrical. This allows the IEC jack to both sides, right and left
can be provided. When mounting, make sure that the rear wall does not protrude from the side walls.
3. The front plate is placed with the outer side downwards on a soft support and the body is placed on. Three M3x6 cylinder head screws with washer locker will be
screwed in and align the body exactly before tightening. The front plate has to protrude 2mm above the body on the right and left, to the top and bottom.
The front panel should be centered with the body. Only three screws are required, since there is no more space at the corner with the keyboard module. This is not a problem.
The front of the test case is solid and straight.
4. Now screw the mounting base centrally between the front plate and the back plate. Now the ground and the top will follow. The cooling slots should be located on the back. If you want, you can attach the supplied feets to the ground plate.
IV.) Assembly of electronic
The mounting base has a hole gauge of 10mm, the most electronic components can be screwed without further drilling. I mounted the Pi with four threaded sleeves (M2,5x5mm)
. The Pi did not fit exactly into the 10mm hole grid, but since the floor is drilled with 4mm holes, it can be easily installed.
The data connection between display and Pi is via a 40-pin FFC cable 150mm (see the parts list). The display also requires a 5V power supply
for all other components, everyone is free in the selection and placement.
Have fun with your own player.
V.) The parts list
This list contains the parts installed in my player and should be an example for your own projects.
Of course everyone will customize his own player. This is why we do DIY.
Out of the shop from MAX2PLAY
1x PiBox-Bundle. This is specially designed for the PiBox kit and includes the most importand modules
The following components are contained in the bundle:
1x Raspberry Pi 3B
1x 7 inch Raspberry Display
1x Hifiberry DAC+ Pro
1x premium license MAX2PLAY
Out of the shop from Thel Audioworld
1x power supplie Thel NT-25HQ-09
Out of the shop from Audiophonics
- 1x aluminum button 5469
- 2x Micro USB Male Power Cable 9405
- 1x Panel mount USB-A male to USB-A female
- 1x Panel mount HDMI male to female 1.4
- 1x Panel mount Ethernet RJ45 780
- 1x Neutrik NYS367 red 896
- 1x Neutrik NYS367 black 897
- 1x Viablue EPC-1 Silver Unbalanced Interconnector Cable 6798
- 1x IEC-Rifle 2957
- 15 Pin FFC-Cable pitch1 to connect the Displays
- USB-Cable: Micro-USB-Plug
- M2.5 threaded sleeves for mounting the pi
- Wi-Fi stick Edimax EW-7612An V2
- USB Hub
- Fuse holder for housing hole D13
- Screws, cables ...
Many, many thanks to Dr. Jones